wire amp and sub to stock radio

Intmd83r

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it says a 50 amp sorry . so i got the 50 amp fuse holder and the fuse . i got it work like crap . the speakers on the right have a dark blue and light blue wire . you think the dark blue is (-) ? and the left the speakers have yellow and brown . i was guessing brown is the (-) . going with the dark color is (-) but ok . i got the wires hooked up for the most i think . no pic but i can take some if it helps . i ran into some problems . the 50 amp fuse holder on the power wire from the batt to the amp . i think i got hooked up right and the ground . but when it comes to the remote wire i ran it to my fuse box pass side but i didnt know what to run it to cause most the fuses say 10 on it . i ran to a spot that was wdpr or something like that cant remember what the thing said but my guess was it was windshield wippers . but the fuse had a 10 on it does that matter ? so the remote wire runs to the LOC then from LOC to amp . i thought i had everything right so i started it. the check engine light was on . it worked (not tuned) but then started to make a loud ass high pitched noise so i shut off the car andran and unhooked the batt . looked to see what was wrong .took everything apart . my brother wired + and - wrong on his side . put dark blue to light blue . it started getting dark . but i didnt know why the check engine light came on or where to put the remote wire ( tap into 12v) and the LOC had a 2 ground wires . in the how to didnt hook them up . was wondering if i should and cound i just wire it to the ground that my amp is hooed to ? i know its alot .................

---------- Post added at 07:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:29 PM ----------

o i just looked at the pic . did he hook the red power to the (-) side of the batt ??????? cause i hooked it to the (+) . didnt have the internet where i did it
 

newfiedan

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Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue

You do not need to connect any of the wires on the loc except for the speaker wires, the rest just stagger them and tape them up. Rca cables plug into loc and then to the amp. how did you tap into the fuse in the fuse panel? use a test light find one that is only on when the key is on, then tap it with a bussmann bp/hhh fusetap or similar one to it, canadian tire here sells them but I am sure that any autoparts store sells similar fuse taps for mini fuses. The negative wires on the loc are for common ground speakers which you do not have. Make 100% sure that the amp is wired correctly, + (red wire with fuse holder) and - is to chassis or battery ground using a secure bolt. You can blow the fuse or worse by hooking it up backwards.
 

Intmd83r

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o no i hope i didnt mess anything up ................. are all car audio 50 amp fuses the same ? i asked the guy a pepboys he gave me a fuse holder and a pack of 50 amp fuses . but it was the only kind of fuses and only fuse holder they had for car audio

---------- Post added at 10:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:49 PM ----------

so i dont need the remote wire hooked up on the LOC ?
 

emperorjj1

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correct. your may have broken that LOC if you ran remote into it. the extra wire is for a ground if you get engine noise. idk why u would have a check engine light unless u tapped a fuse that shouldnt have been tapped. i would try the sunroof fuse
 

Intmd83r

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is there diffrent types of 50 amp fuses for the power wire . or are all 50 amp fuses the same . the LOC has wires for remote in and out the loc has @ wires for right speakers 2 wire for left . 2 ground wires . 2 remote wires in and out . my ground wire from my amp is long i am wondering if that was messing with it
 

emperorjj1

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possibly... ground is supposed to be 18" or less BUT in cobalts i just run the wire to the stock battery ground location, since the battery is in the trunk it normally makes a better connection vs a shorter one

what loc did you buy? install edge?

there are different physical types of 50a fuses yes. AGU, Maxi, Mini ANL but you need to get the correct fuse type for your fuseholder.
 

Intmd83r

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im gonna go out and look at everything . but the fuse is a glass tube holder . i allready went to pepboys to make sure they gave me the right fuse and fuse holder and they were no fucking help . but i do know there is no more of the glass tube holders or the fuse the guy gave me and i know they sold aolt of the kits i got . i found a guy that will doo it on craigslist for $50 but i am so close . im gonna go out there now and give it another shot . ill get the name of the LOC . the speaker wires i get but the how to said yellow was + and newfiedan said its - . so im gonna try that . the LOc has a 12v in and a LOC out to the amp . says can be used as a remote . im gonna try doing the speakers only and see if that works . thanks for the help guys
 

emperorjj1

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sounds like a plan. If you had both of the speaker wires backwards it wouldn't have mattered much but if you only had one backwards then it would play but be very quiet

the glass fuse is AGU and thats fine/ok
 

Intmd83r

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ok my LOc is from best buy its "axxess - intergration device .... 2 ch adj differential convertor with amp turn on " my fuse holder and fuses are lightning audio 50 amp fuses . from pepboys

---------- Post added at 01:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:59 PM ----------

o my speakers and amp are " SDX audio " pk06210/pk06212 .


2 ch amp
variable bass boots 0 - 18dB @ 45hz
high level input
led indicator or pwr protection
rca lin in/output
protection circuitry for overload/overheat/short
variable high pass / low pass crossover
input voume control
full mosfet circuitry

thats what it says in the book .
 

Intmd83r

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i got my shit working !!!!!!!! just need to tune it . it dont hit as hard as i thought it would but i got alot more bass . any tips on how to tune it . i had to get a new LOC the one i had the left speaker wires wouldnt work . got the new on but it was a cheap one $15 they didnt have the $50 one i had . i bet that one works better . ... i didnt know what the switch "x-over" does . and my check engine light is still on but the car runs fine and the subs work and the amp has the green light on . if i unhook the power cable from battery and start the car the llight is off . i drove around with the amp hooked up a little battery didnt die lights didnt dim car ran the same .....
 

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