P0102 code MAF, help me please!!

[07CobaltLS]

got 07 cobalt keeps giving me a P0102 code, I have changed maf sensor checked entire intake, changed air filter, changed purge solenoid, changed every fuse related to ecm, trans, and evap. bought a OBD II/EOBD CEN-TECH today, values for maf show up in g/s, which aint sure what that is. supposed to be between 6-12 at idle from research I have done thus far, and go up according to throttle applied. mine was at like 2 at idle went up a bit at first, then the code came back when I floored the car value went to 1.49 and never moved. also the BARO pressure did not move after this. I need help figuring it out, MAP seems to be working ok

---------- Post added at 06:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:46 PM ----------

anyone?

 

[07CobaltLS]

ok the baro and map both seem ok according to my limited knowledge, but I cleared the code and a little while later the maf values started moving again but shortly after cel came back and it was stuck on 1.49 again whats with the number being the same twice in a row

 

[YelloEye]

Wires to the maf good? Watch your measurements while messing with the wire.

 

[07CobaltLS]

I was working on chasing the wires before it got dark, some of the casing around the wires had began to fall apart allowing the heat from the motor to start to slightly melt the wires together a bit. the odd thing is that it does come and go, when it is acting up the tranny(auto) slams into gear hard. and both times since I got scanner when the cel light came on the maf value was stuck on 1.49 g/s both times, and would not move until it recovers, where are these wires going to be headed to?

 

[Bass_Waves]

Follow the wiring . Not exactly sure since mines is different. Of you have issue with the wires , most likely 2 wires are being grounded together. Meaning not good.

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[07CobaltLS]

chased out all of the wires to the maf all the way to the ground, to the fuse panel, which with maf unplugged and car running I have 15v roughly, and chased another all the way where it goes into the plug for the computer, the other two go into a plug on the fire wall, just plugs together, no visible damage to wires that would cause concern, like I said some places had gotten hot enough to start to melt them together. I was thinking of changing out the eye that all those ground wires go into just to make sure though I really don't think that is the issue. I am wondering if the ecm is just wacked. I had heard of people doing a reflash on the ecm, would this be a possible solution. also when I have obdII plugged in, with car running it still shows 1.49g/s when I shut off the car values go straight to 0.00 soon as I start the car back up values go right back to 1.49, I hooked up to my wifes cobalt, watched the values to the maf, even swapped mafs with her car, just in case oriellys gave me a bad replacement, still nothing, same crap

---------- Post added at 11:21 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:14 AM ----------

o I also metered both cars with maf sensors unplugged, was not positive what process to use, but I metered them both the same way and they both metered out pretty much identical

 

[YelloEye]

The maf sensor sounds dirty or bad. You said it's new so that shouldn't be the issue. Checked the service books? Here's the circuit diag.

Important: All electrical components and accessories must be turned OFF, and allowed to power down.

Ignition OFF, disconnect the MAF/IAT harness connector at the MAF/IAT sensor.

Ignition OFF, test for less than 5 ohms of resistance between the ground circuit terminal B and ground.
⇒If greater than the specified range, test the ground circuit for an open/high resistance.

Ignition ON, verify that a test lamp illuminates between the ignition circuit terminal C and ground.
⇒If the test lamp does not illuminate, test the ignition circuit for a short to ground or an open/high resistance.

Ignition ON, test for 4.8-5.2 volts between the signal circuit terminal A and ground.
⇒If less than the specified range, test the signal circuit for a short to ground or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.
⇒If greater than the specified range, test the signal circuit for a short to voltage. If the circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.

There's a special tool to see if the ecu can correctly interpret the signal. Might be worth just flashing the ecu.

 

[07CobaltLS]

if you know the wiring diagram for the maf which is actually labeled on the maf A-E.
I metered the maf and when I am on A+B I get 4.99v when I am on B+C I got like 15V, when I am on B+D it was like 6-7V and B+E was also 4.99v hopefully this will help someone help me

---------- Post added at 04:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:11 PM ----------

sorry there yellow eye after I posted that I seen that but based on what I pulled I think my wiring is good, however I did redo the ground, put new eye on, however I will follow these exact steps as I did not know how to properly check it, thank you very much I will post back probably shortly

 

[07CobaltLS]

update I went to meter out the maf, precisely as the above post says, I had metered it before, and it seemed ok, but I decided to do it again anyway. ground was good no resistance, pink(hot) wire was good lit up with a test light, but the yellow wire was acting up like bouncing all over the place with really high numbers, stripped it back behind the plug and it read good, all in all the wire had broken inside the sheathing right at the back of the maf sensor, temp fixed it and hooked up my obdII and maf values were doing good. ordered new plug with pigtail, should be good to go after that, thanks a million for your help all

 

[Bass_Waves]

Good find.

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