Dave the easiest way to get the system to act up is to overheat the motor. Park the car running and rapidly turn the wheel lock to lock. Once the code triggers take the vehicle in for warranty.
Need higher top speed...
- Thread starter My_06_Balt
- Start date
For better acceleration, think better air in/air out.
At the ZZPerformance website they have the LE5 air inlet tube. It is just under $100 and eliminates the factory bladder style set-up. It will fit the LAP or L61 2.2l, no problem. Then get a K&N drop-in filter.
There are nice stainless shorty headers on Ebay for about $100 shipped. And 2.25" catback exhaust systems for less than $180 on there now.
The factory catback is 2.00", downpipe is 2.25", so you'll upgrade to a better freeflowing set-up for higher rpm HP.
ZZPerformance sells a very nice 2.5" downpipe if you feel like spending more.
There are better, MORE expensive ways to go but if you're on a budget this is a good start.
And none of it will drive a code/error.
At the ZZPerformance website they have the LE5 air inlet tube. It is just under $100 and eliminates the factory bladder style set-up. It will fit the LAP or L61 2.2l, no problem. Then get a K&N drop-in filter.
There are nice stainless shorty headers on Ebay for about $100 shipped. And 2.25" catback exhaust systems for less than $180 on there now.
The factory catback is 2.00", downpipe is 2.25", so you'll upgrade to a better freeflowing set-up for higher rpm HP.
ZZPerformance sells a very nice 2.5" downpipe if you feel like spending more.
There are better, MORE expensive ways to go but if you're on a budget this is a good start.
And none of it will drive a code/error.
cobalt123
Platinum Member
trade it in for a car already turbo'd or supercharged.
UncleDave
Member
First thing I did was to contact the dealers, in person.
---------- Post added at 08:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:59 AM ----------
Yesterday, I drove across the yard to pick up the trailer. Cobalt started with the problem. Shut the car off to connect the trailer. Starting it again, the problem had cleared. Did not show up again for the rest of the day. Seems to have the problem when Cold; does not to my memory ever happen after being on the road for more than 1/2 mile.
The COLD weather is on the way. Might help to locate the problem.
The closest Dealer is some 35 miles away. Problem will clear after 10 miles or so of driving. Down US 24 from Woodland Park to Colorado Springs?
I also have a second problem. The battery voltage can go up to 14.9 while driving. This
can boil the battery. Any time I take it to a shop it will not miss behave while under test. Under the hood, with an electronic meter the battery tests 200 - 250 CCA. Replaced it. Still have the problem. The new battery tested Fail. The old battery with my tester 750 CCA. The problem can be the long cables to the battery located in the trunk. Then again it could be a bad connection. This is Colorado; the yard is on a slope, and I really do not want to get under the car to look at connectors yet.
I have been putting Dielectric paste on all the connectors as I get to them.
Lord Willing, I will find the problem. I am 69. I believe I have seen God and lived. When
I do find the root cause I will pass it on.
By the way. The new electronic tester is a 4 wire Bridge. This allows it to cancel out the effects of the leads. This can't eleminate the cable from the engine to the battery in the trunk.
---------- Post added at 08:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:59 AM ----------
Yesterday, I drove across the yard to pick up the trailer. Cobalt started with the problem. Shut the car off to connect the trailer. Starting it again, the problem had cleared. Did not show up again for the rest of the day. Seems to have the problem when Cold; does not to my memory ever happen after being on the road for more than 1/2 mile.
The COLD weather is on the way. Might help to locate the problem.
The closest Dealer is some 35 miles away. Problem will clear after 10 miles or so of driving. Down US 24 from Woodland Park to Colorado Springs?
I also have a second problem. The battery voltage can go up to 14.9 while driving. This
can boil the battery. Any time I take it to a shop it will not miss behave while under test. Under the hood, with an electronic meter the battery tests 200 - 250 CCA. Replaced it. Still have the problem. The new battery tested Fail. The old battery with my tester 750 CCA. The problem can be the long cables to the battery located in the trunk. Then again it could be a bad connection. This is Colorado; the yard is on a slope, and I really do not want to get under the car to look at connectors yet.
I have been putting Dielectric paste on all the connectors as I get to them.
Lord Willing, I will find the problem. I am 69. I believe I have seen God and lived. When
I do find the root cause I will pass it on.
By the way. The new electronic tester is a 4 wire Bridge. This allows it to cancel out the effects of the leads. This can't eleminate the cable from the engine to the battery in the trunk.