Need help installing an amp

Dayhoff35

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ok i have this amp and im deciding wether or not to put it in the car. Its a 4 channel amp for my speakers. My questions are do i tap into the speaker wire with the wire from the amp and only hook up the original speaker wire or do i just twist the 2 together and then hook them up to the speaker or do i just hook up the amp to each speaker. Also there are 2 rca spots do i hook up 2 rca spots i would think i needed 2 rca cables but im not 100% on that. Also on my radio there are 4 plugs already plugged in on my dvd head unit i would think those 4 would be the speakers right now but im not sure. Also i already have a power wire hooked up for my other amp would i be able to tap into that before the wire reaches the rfuse and run 2 wires off of that 1 fuse or would i have to do a completly different wire. Any help would be good thanks.
heres some pics

[media]http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w264/ipath207/car/amp006.jpg[/media]
[media]http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w264/ipath207/car/amp007.jpg[/media]
[media]http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w264/ipath207/car/amp011.jpg[/media]
[media]http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w264/ipath207/car/amp008.jpg[/media]
 

Tuner923

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ok i have this amp and im deciding wether or not to put it in the car. Its a 4 channel amp for my speakers. My questions are do i tap into the speaker wire with the wire from the amp and only hook up the original speaker wire or do i just twist the 2 together and then hook them up to the speaker or do i just hook up the amp to each speaker. Also there are 2 rca spots do i hook up 2 rca spots i would think i needed 2 rca cables but im not 100% on that. Also on my radio there are 4 plugs already plugged in on my dvd head unit i would think those 4 would be the speakers right now but im not sure. Also i already have a power wire hooked up for my other amp would i be able to tap into that before the wire reaches the rfuse and run 2 wires off of that 1 fuse or would i have to do a completly different wire. Any help would be good thanks.
heres some pics

amp006.jpg

amp007.jpg

amp011.jpg

amp008.jpg


fixed
 

Dayhoff35

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thanks man hopefully someone answers this tomorrow
 

newfiedan

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To run the amp for 4 speakers you need at least 2 rca inputs, 1 left and 1 right from the deck to the amp unless you use a line output converter to provide rca outputs for the amp or use the high level inputs to the amp. Easiest and most cost effective is a set of rcas from the deck to the amp, for a 4 speaker setup I like to run 2 sets of rcas for all 4 channels (1 per speaker) . You will need a minimum of 14 gauge wire to run a set of amplified speakers and the speaker wiring in the base cobalt is much smaller. If you have the amplified sound system from factory then you are good to go for that part. The good news is that if you have the base set then its really easy to run the aftermarket speaker wire to the front speakers through the rubber door molex connector, you don't even need to drill holes in it, just open the door all the way and pry the molex out of the body then remove the rubber, the plastic molex has openings all along the outer ring that you can easily run speaker wire through. Just run it through that plastic then into the rubber connector into the door and then put the rubber back of the plastic and put it back into the door. Super easy to do and does not take much time. Just make sure that all speaker wire is run along the factory channels to protect it from damage. You will need to remove the door panels, the rubber molex connection and then the sill it all pops up easy enough for the door sill, pull the front part towards the inside of the vehicle, the pull the long part straight up just make sure you don't yank on it to hard and break a clip. I use a plastic pry tool thats specifically for panel pulling but a wide plastic scraper works just as well. You can use a power distrbution block to tap into the amp power wire that you have but you will need to increase the fuse amp rating to accomodate a second amp, and then fuse both amps between the amp and block to avoid damaging either amp. Also make sure that before you touch anything electrical then you need to disconnect the negative terminal of your battery first and connect it back up last to avoid blowing fuses. If your dvd deck has 4 rcas connected to it already then check your amp its most likely a 4 channel amp with 4 rcas plugged into it already. They usually do not use the rcas to connect directly to the speakers but some car audio installers do.
 
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Dayhoff35

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thanks for all the great infor yeah my car is the base model and did not come with the facory amp. Also when i had my head unit installed there were no subs or anything just the head unit and the speakers so i think the 4 plugs are for the speakers ill try to get a picture of them later. But with what your saying either way im going to have to get a 2nd fuse i was trying to cut that out to save the $20 but i guess i dont want to cut corners either.
 

newfiedan

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trust me wiring is 1 thing you want done right the first time around, I have been around long enough to see what happens when people cut corners with it and the consequences can be pretty bad. Most decks come with 4 to 6 preouts these days, 1 for sub and 4 for speakers or 2 for subs and 1 for speakers. Mine has 4 but the last 7 dvd units has 6 on them that I put into various cars. Any questions feel free to pm me or add me to msn messenger if you have it, my msn is [email protected] just make sure that you put in there that you are from this forum, if you add me without any notes to identify yourself I block the address. here is a link you can check out as well for wiring through door connections. http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~78731~PN~1
 
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newfiedan

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Favorite Car Audio Myths
Here's a list of my favorite car audio myths in no particular order.


1. Amplifiers should be grounded at the battery

Generally the battery is the worst place to ground an amplifier. The battery is where all of the electrical noise from the vehicle's various parts ends up. Like a noise garbage disposal. Connecting your audio components to this noise hub is a bad idea.

2. Adding a second battery to the vehicle will ease the load on the alternator

A second battery will increase the load on the alternator, not decrease it. With the vehicle running the second battery becomes another load for the alternator to charge. Second batteries are only good for engine off listening time.

3. Ground all of your audio components at the same place to eliminate noise

Sometimes this works and sometimes it makes the problem worse. When you ground any current carrying component to the vehicle you create a circular field at that point. Poorly designed audio components could pick up this field and introduce it as noise into the system. When this is the case it's a good idea to separate your components by six inches or more. The higher the current (large amps), the more space I recommend.

4. Routing power cables on the opposite side of the signal cables will prevent noise

Maybe. It will prevent the signal cables from picking up noise inductively from the power cables. But it won't prevent them from picking up noise from the vehicle's chassis or from other electronic components along their path. It's a good practice but doesn't guarantee noise pickup.

5. A high output alternator will reduce the chance of noise

Actually it's the opposite. The larger the alternator the greater the noise output. The noise increases with the power output of the alternator.

6. Power capacitors should be fused

The purpose of a car audio capacitor is to deliver large amounts of current very quickly (faster than a battery is capable of). Adding a fuse, which is just a short length of very small wire, will slow down this current delivery. And because capacitors can discharge so quickly the fuse wouldn't blow before the capacitor has discharged.

7. Adding more speakers will increase the sound quality

Volume, maybe. Sound quality, no. The more speakers you add to a system the greater the problems you will have due to speaker interaction. Each speaker is a little wave producer and when the waves from one speaker meet those of another speaker the results are peaks and dips in the response. Generally less is more when looking for sound quality. Look to the car audio competition finals winners and you'll see that they use a small number of high quality speakers.

8. Turning up all of the frequencies on an equalizer will increase the system volume

The system volume is based on many factors including system power and speaker sensitivity. The purpose of an equalizer is to compensate for vehicle specific problems and not as a general volume control. Boosting all of the frequencies won't make your system louder, only more distorted.

9. Tweeters should be placed as high up as possible

Tweeters should be placed as near to the midrange/woofer as possible in most cases. The tweeter and the midrange/woofer are a matched pair and shouldn't be separated. Imagine an electric guitar which has a wide acoustical range. If the guitar is playing a riff in the frequency range of the woofer and then switches to a riff in the frequency range of the tweeter you'll likely notice the position of the guitar jump. Now if the tweeter is placed near the woofer the guitar position will remain in place. Better installers can make a tweeter that is separated sound correct but a much safer bet is to leave the set together.

10. An amplifier's gain control should be set to maximum to get more volume

The purpose of the gain control is to match the output level of the component before it (head unit, equalizer, crossover, etc.) Since car audio manufacturers don't use a standard output level like home audio manufacturers do it is necessary to have an adjustable input. Adjusting the gain too high will only cause more distortion in the amplifier's output. Since our ears perceive distorted and painful sounds as louder this is a myth that has perpetuated.

Bottom line: Be careful who you listen to and what you believe (good advice for life too). There are plenty of folks inside and outside the car audio realm that will simply make something up if they don't know the answer (don't want to look stupid). Then there are those that have been told a lie, accepted it as truth, and passed it along. When in doubt, get a second opinion.
 

scotlcky13

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w/ ur expierences, educate me please

newfiedan: You clearly know your stuff, that list of car audio myths was funny. Too true, and good advice on everything, as if one does not know exactly how to accoplish a task, ask questions. Be it advice from a Dr. or Mechanic, getting a second oppininion can NEVER cause harm, but being ignorant and just following others blindly may.

Question for you please. I want to upgrade my 2009 Cobalt LT system with car audio parts from my previous rides. Have the 5 & 1/4 Kenwood componets for front stage. Placing the mid/woofer in the factory door location, will custom the tweets probably under or around the inside front door latches w/ in 18" of the mids. I have Kenwood 6x9 in the rear and will later on add a single sealed 8 0r 10 in the trunk.

I purchased a used 5 channel 150x4 + 300x1 amp to run the whole system on. I want to keep as much fctory apperance as possible, IE reason why i want to keep the Chevy CD player. On star came with the car I bought last summer, but let it expire after the free trial period ended w/ no plans of reinstating it.

Best Buy wants to charge me $500 + equipment charges to install the amp to the factory HU. Best Buy stated the Chevy CD player doesn't have RCAs to connect an amp to and the reasoning behind a drastic charge for custom re wiring to run what I am asking for.

Is Best Buy telling me the truth, I doubt it. From your expierences w/ cobalts is it possible to add an amp to the factory radio.

Thank you so VERY much, i greatly appriciate it
 

newfiedan

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You can wire in a line output converter or LOC to run the amp off of that will convert the speaker wires to rcas for you but only for 2 channels if you wire it to the rear speaker wires (1 left and 1 right) they are really easy to wire in and you can run that to the amp inputs. Now if you want to do 4 channels then you need 2 for the 1 for the front and 1 for the rear best bet to do this would be to wire both from the deck and then run rca cables to the rear for the amp. The LOCs will run anywhere from 20 to 50 bucks a piece depending on what one you buy. Scoche and metra both make decent ones and are usually available at wal mart or bestbuy or visions or futureshop. Follow the wiring instructions for wiring. I highly recommend that you learn how to solder and use solder and shrink tube for all connections to do it correctly. For the extra time its takes its well worth it for security in knowing its done right. Follow the wiring instructions for wiring the loc. With this you can retain the factory deck and add an amp with subs, speakers etc. Any other questions feel free to pm me or add me to msn messenger if you like my email is [email protected] but make sure that you add a note telling me who you are and where you got my email otherwise I block it and do not read it.
 

scotlcky13

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just to verify LOC= Line Out Converter correct?

Also, would it be possible w/ running the 5 channels: 130x4 to run my componet 5 1/4 woofers in the front doors and the 2 6x9s in back + 1 sub Then have the factory radio divert power to run just the 2 1" tweets up front for the componets, or simply align the woofer/tweets to run at one channel per side. Is it better to have on epower sorce supply the wattage to the componets together, or to do as first questioned and powered by seperate units, IE amp for woofers & 6x9s + last channel for sub and HU for tweets?
 

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