My GF's Cobalt\s battery doesn't seem to hold a charge. It has to be jump started every time. Sometimes it cranks and doesn't start, but it never dies once it's running. The alt puts out 14V and tests good according to Auto Zone.
The battery tests "charge and retest."
The engine light comes on, but there are no stored codes.
I started to change the battery, and I noticed that the neg cable was hotter than the positive. I d/c'd the neg cable and hooked up and amp meter. There is a 3A draw.
I don't usually work on GM cars. Some cars I have worked on have a big draw when you first hook up a new battery while all the systems check themselves, hen the draw goes away after a few minutes.
Does the Cobalt have a draw at first when you hook up a new battery, then a "sleep" mode after a few minutes? Or should it be a close to 0 amp reading with the key off when I connect a battery?
How many amps should I read if I hook the ammeter up to the battery neg with the key off?
Are there any common causes of current draw on this car?
Thanks!
The battery tests "charge and retest."
The engine light comes on, but there are no stored codes.
I started to change the battery, and I noticed that the neg cable was hotter than the positive. I d/c'd the neg cable and hooked up and amp meter. There is a 3A draw.
I don't usually work on GM cars. Some cars I have worked on have a big draw when you first hook up a new battery while all the systems check themselves, hen the draw goes away after a few minutes.
Does the Cobalt have a draw at first when you hook up a new battery, then a "sleep" mode after a few minutes? Or should it be a close to 0 amp reading with the key off when I connect a battery?
How many amps should I read if I hook the ammeter up to the battery neg with the key off?
Are there any common causes of current draw on this car?
Thanks!
Last edited:
