2.2L LAP/L61 S/C Technical Build Thread

[cobalt123]

drilled and slotted of course, the some ceramic brake pads, my rims are beat to shit so dont care about dust

cool


Also boughthttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390158495705

its the FE5 2008 SS front stabilizer bar

Mounting Option B

Well I found out last night, it is not so true.

It sparked my curiousity. As I was preparing for my supercharger build I was grabbing engine bay photos everywhere on the forum here as I was in threads. There is someone here with a GM looking reservoir mounted on one of the old air intake studs.

So last night I decided to check it out again after I got off the forum. The same reservoir that I got will work with some modification. It actually DOES mount on the stud... but the second mounting tab (towards the front of the car) is pushing up against the washer bottle.

Today, I am going to carefully cut that mounting tab off and it will 100% mount on the air intake stud. I'll take some pics... before and after.

Also, I did look it up and the SS has a different coolant reservoir. I think the only difference is one has a sensor and one doesn't, but they appear to look physically the same in the diagrams I have.

Our reservoirs have a dummy sensor hole in them, so it is probably the same reservoir with the dummy plug punched out.

Ok, so my modification on the tank was successful.

Here is the stock tank. As you can see the mounting tab is hitting on the new LSJ washer reservoir.

After I neatly removed the mounting tab all seems to be well. For better mounting, it seems like I'll need a spacer under the nut on the stud since I cann't screw it down all the way or the tank won't sit right.

I installed the LSJ air intake today and since the TB was ugly (stock aluminum) I decided to paint it while I was cleaning up the garage. I didn't do much else today. Went to mom's with the kids and used the pool.

 

[Jn2]

lol my rims have 3 months of dust on them...i have had a front pair of ceramic pads sitting in my closet for months now, waiting for when i decide to get the rotors(slotted only), SS brake lines, and wilwood dot4 brake fluid

 

[cobalt123]

ill keep those in mind,

what advantage of running ss brake lines? larger diameter of the lines? ie more fluid?

thanks. cant wait to put it in, although LNF shocks and struts would be a nice addition...

i haz dropzone springs. 60k miles no problems go figure

My friend also suggested that I take the old brake booster hose and cut the ends off to use for the valve cover to new air intake breather. It was a brilliant idea and the hose looks all formed and looks like it was developed that way.

I put a bolt in the end of the supercharger pulley (stage 2 hub) and cranked the engine manually with a wrench and the belt slipped on. The belt also needed to be aligned with the rear of the pulleys (1 rib missing) so I got a body shop pry tool (plastic) and cranked the engine over with the wrench again and moved the belt backwards. All is well.

I added real hose clamps (worm type) to the LSJ upper radiator hose and installed it.

I put on the new evap hose from TB to purge solenoid.

I went to install the TB and the air intake hose from the TB to the one that sticks up out of the fender. This was quite a problem for me. Since I have active handling, I have an electronic brake control module and this big connector rests right below the TB. For the life of me I could not get the air intake hose on.

After about 30 minutes of messing with it I decided to remove the TB, install the air intake hose and clamp it on the TB and then try to install the TB to the supercharger again. I was able to get it carefully installed.

The top of the connector has a lever lock type assembly (vertical connector) and the top of the connector was sticking up too high. I may be able to grind it down, but the module and/or the harness can be really expensive if I ruin it, so I am sticking with the way it is for now.

I honestly don't see the point - it's a lot more effort to swap pulleys than to cut a rib off the belt, and it doesn't even look bad...

cuting a rib off makes for 1/6th less friction, which means more belt slip than without it. However, its really not a big deal, since if you get belt slip you can just get a stg 2 belt, over sized tensioner, over sized idler, or adjustable tensioner, or any other aftermarket option out there for us.

 

[Jn2]

rubber expands...SS wont, so better brake response, u ever have to press ur brake, and it doesnt brake, u have to press more, that brake pedal fade...wont happend with SS lines, u press the pedal it starts braking...no fade

 

[cobalt123]

agh so it helps prolong your brake life, good to know, seeing as we have to bleed the brakes anyways shouldnt be too difficult to replace?

Ok Update!

Here we go! To make an extremely long story very short... I brought home the Tech 2 tonight from work and looked at the voltages and all as I now have P0108 code. It said this happens when MAP voltage is 4.80 and higher for 5 seconds or more. Actual reading at the sensor and in the Tech 2 was 4.75 volts.

So, there was nothing wrong with it. I brought home another LSJ MAP sensor tonight for kicks and it was the same.

Called Vince and he said he is seeing problems with 08 and up ECU's not doing well with the LSJ 1 bar MAP and that he actually preferred the stock MAP.

Since I am using a 2005 Cavalier injector wiring harness (has factory stage 2 injector connectors) I had to cut off my LAP MAP sensor connector and install on the Cavalier wiring harness.

The LAP MAP sensor fits great in the LSJ intake manifold. Fits like a glove.. but the bolt hole is off. So I had to modify the sensor.

Here is the before modification pic.

Here is the after modification and install pic

The P0108 code went away and I was left with 2 air pump codes that Vince will have to take out of the tune for me.

Started the car:

Here is the video!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2h2izQrFvls



Now guess what? I have no boost?

I texted Casey and he hasn't responded yet. Should have introduced myself but was in the heat of the moment and forgot.

At any rate... it is idling at -18 to -20 vacuum, which sounds good right?

When I crack on the throttle the vacuum goes up to 0 and just about stops... maybe once or twice it hit 1 PSI. I don't know if my boost bypass valve actuator is installed wrong, or plate is not ligned up properly or what?

The boost is certainly being blown off.

Any help or insight is appreciated.

Common Codes:

P0108

DTC P0108: Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit High Voltage

This appears to be a high resistance in the MAP low reference circuit per the service manual.

I used a 2005 Chevy Cavalier injector harness, which has the MAP sensor connector on it for the LSJ 1 bar map sensor. I also used a brand new SCIP sensor (1 bar map)

I double checked in the service manual that the LSJ SCIP (1 bar map) sensor and the Cavalier MAP sensor were the same wires. So this is correct.

Anything I should look for? I wonder if Vince put the right MAP sensor in the tune?

P2432

DTC P2432 : Secondary Air Injection System Pressure Sensor A Circuit Low

Well, that's ok, as it is gone and Vince will probably have to remove this code.

P0418

DTC P0418 : Secondary Air Injection (AIR) Pump Control Circuit

So, while studying how I am going to handle the IAT2 conversion today, I decided to handle it differently.

Instead of cutting wire at MAF I am going to take out the pin/wire at the ECU and put in new wire and new pin. I had the right pin at work and the right crimp and release tool to go with it.

This would also make it able to be done without having to remove the wheel liner, etc if you weren't going to do the intake at the same time.

I'm still going to do the intake but I'm saying that if there is anything wrong I can simply take out the pin and wire that I installed and put the old pin back in and reinstall old MAP sensor. I doubt I will need to go backwards.

The pin on my car is #58 for the IAT. I will post up some info either over or after the weekend

The IAT2 wire is spliced into the MAF already. My friend is going to come over probably tomorrow and we'll install the LSJ 2.5 bar MAP and connect the IAT2 wire. I will make sure the IAT2 works before I put the wheel liner back in and the wheel on. I can do the 2.5 bar MAP install myself but he has a little butane torch especially for heat shrinking the connectors and melting the solder inside the connectors so I'll just let him do it.

Ok, today I got the new MAF connector (I broke mine the other day remember) and my friend stopped over and did the LSJ 2.5 MAP connector conversion for me. I got in and started it up and it was reading something like 65,000 for the IAT2 temp, lol. So, luckily I didn't put the wheel well liner back in as I made a stupid mistake. I connected the newly ran wire from the MAP the MAF sensor. The wire should have been connected to the wire that originally went to the MAF, from the ECU. Luckily I had male and female weatherpack connectors on both so I just added another female onto the old MAF IAT wire and connected them.

I started it back up and I had IAT2's! I then had to reinstall the wheel well liner and the wheel and my friend cleaned up the wiring, etc and buttoned it up. It was late and wet outside so I didn't take it for a ride or anything.

All I can say is... I can hear whine...pretty impressive supercharger whine now when I hit the throttle. I can't wait to hear what it sounds like on the open road.

I'll have to monitor my IAT2's and see if I am going to drop a pulley size or not. I will also have to do a couple more runs and record on the Interceptor and see if I got any horsepower gains from the Injen cold air intake.

got it in 2.5 days woot, now for upgraded endlinks..moog?

 

[Jn2]

agh so it helps prolong your brake life, good to know, seeing as we have to bleed the brakes anyways shouldnt be too difficult to replace?

not take old lines off, bolt new ones in, bleed the system, refill with brake fluid, im actually using the wilwood dot4 for racing apps, higher boiling point, i forgot the actual name of the fluid, as they have diffrent kinds, but ill know when i see it lol

 

[cobalt123]

they arent direct replacement just add ins

they dont look bad. they only have 6k miles on them. ill use em. cant wait to put it in

those timing numbers look about right (seems i run less timing than you at WOT though, im around 12).

well, the sensor (like most sensors) will send a signal between 0 and 5 volts to the ECU. 0 volts means there is no pressure at all, 5 volts means there is full pressure. So, since your car is currently tuned for a 1 bar map sensor (14.7PSIa), whenever your stock sensor sees 14.7PSIa or more (or 0psi of boost), the sensor would normally send 5 volts to the ECU, which the ECU would then interpret as you running at 14.7PSIa.

However, you have a 1bar tune, but have a 2.5bar (about 37PSIa) MAP sensor. When your car is at 0 PSI boost (14.7PSIa), the sensor will send, say 2 volts of current, because the sensor sees 14.7PSIa as only about 2/5ths of its maximum pressure, so it will only send 5 volts if it sees 37PSIa. The ECU receives these 2 volts, and, thinking you're still running a 1bar MAP sensor, it calculates you are seeing about 6PSIa, when you are in fact running almost 3x that amount.

Basically, the ECU is not scaled the same as the sensor. What Vince will do, is rescale the MAP map so that the ECU knows that 5Volts means 37PSIa instead of 14.7PSIa, 2Volts means 14.7PSIa instead of 6PSIa, etc.

I hope that makes sense. If not, ill try explaining a different way.


correct. no one who supercharged a 2.2/2.4 cobalt changed fuel pumps...

could be elevation, idkm butim getting 10psi at WOT, ad than it spike to 11 after 5k

^^^sneek peak at my new toy; more info avail for it in the lsj section, its a flow thru stle option b tank


VVVV some street tuning vidz
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kSdmOEcX5As&feature=channel_page
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Rzd-ryIW3c

^^^if you look close a new camaro passes us, right after the truck, the camera didnt get a good shot of it

at the beggining i bought a replacement ss/sc sc sensor, but now i just have a bolt in it...ill try and find a pic...the best route is to use another MAP sensor, which was like 34.99 at autozone, but thats a lot to spend for a sensor that wont do jack, soi just put a bolt thru it, used the rubber gllove thing from the map sensor on the bolt to make a good seal and prevent a leak...the bolt isnt threaded in just pushed in, and friction from the rubber glove thing holds it on...by glove i mean that orange thing the MAP nipple has...

Current method of plugging

previous method:

first method: used a rubber aluminum piece to push down a cut piece of hose to plug the hole

 

[Jn2]

Wilwood's specially formulated
Hi-Temp 570 Racing Brake Fluid has a minimum 570 F dry boiling point to withstand the severe heat requirements of automotive racing. Hi-Temp 570's low viscosity allows easy bleeding of your brake system, eliminating aeration of the brake fluid caused by foaming due to excessive pumping of the pedal.

 

[mrsilent13]

dont sell the mount...just get the mounting bracket from an lsj or lnf...or an 07+

---------- Post added at 12:57 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:56 AM ----------

i have a ttr engine mount and i bought the bracket from a friend from his lsj...and its one of the best purchases i have ever made

 

[cobalt123]

ill keep that in mind as well, got any pics of the bracket or a part number

---------- Post added at 06:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:05 AM ----------

btw way JN2 isnt there a part that needs some grinding to be able to fit? which is it?

well, i have had the entire subframe off one of these cars before and have a pretty good selection of tools and such, and it was probly a 4.5/10 difficulty on my scale

you have to take your endlinks off, drop the subframe as far as it will go, remove some plastic to do so, remove both tranny mounts from the subframe, then you have to get in and get the bolts off the mounts and then contort it out...reverse steps to get back in. It wasnt impossible, but def not on the easy list. and if you dont have a good jack and jack stands and a nice socket set, it will be pretty hard.

if this is your first big project on the car, i would be VERY careful cause if somethign isnt put back in right then you will have problems once you get out on the road...if you have worked with alot of the car before, then you should be good to go, you just need to know its going to be a couple hour long project haha

needed to save this^

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(You'll need the "Flat Sheetmetal Mount"

- - - - -

Recommended to me by Mr. Powell.

ggg.